Day 1: Friday, 15 May 2015 – Embarkation, Longyearbyen.

Svabard-SS

We arrived in Svalbard in the early afternoon along with most of the guests who had flown north from Oslo on the same flight. At Longyear airport we were greeted by Rupert, the Blue Planet Expeditions representative, and a mini bus that was waiting to take us to the ship

Due to the fact that we couldn’t embark the MS Stockholm until later in the afternoon we stopped just long enough to offload our luggage. Once this was completed we got back into the minibus and continued onwards for a tour of Longyearbyen.

The town is small but its uniqueness and interesting history provided an interesting interlude, and our guide Wiggo, who is a fourth generation Svalbard resident, gave us a potted history that was both interesting and humorous. Longyearbyen is the furthest North town in the world, a distinction shared with the northernmost church and university campus. The town is also home to the World Seed Bank – a strategic repository for seeds of most of the world’s plants and trees and the crops we rely on.

On our tour, we also learned about the colourful social history of Longyearbyen, and of Svalbard, which, while not having an indigenous people, only a century ago was the ultimate representation of the ‘wild west’. During that time, Svalbard was populated by coal miners, whalers, fox and polar bear trappers – tough, self-reliant people. The human population was scattered sparsely along the archipelago’s cold shores in rudimentary cabins built from driftwood. The capital was formed in Longyearbyen, which had grown up at the bottom of the valley off Isfjorden where the first coal had been discovered. There was no law in Svalbard in those days, adding to the harsh nature of life there, and it was a place suited only to the hardiest and most independent people.

The Svalbard treaty of 1920 saw Norway open its remote High Arctic territory to any other country or people who wanted a part of it, although only Russia staked any claim, later consolidating their access to coal in other areas of Isfjorden, and designating the towns of Barentsburg and Pyramiden as formal Russian inholdings in Svalbard.

After a break at Cafe Fruene, we stopped at the Radisson Hotel to pick up guests who had arrived in Longyearbyen earlier, and then drove down to the port where we boarded the ship.

Just after 5pm, we let go the lines and sailed west into Isfjorden and the beginning of our adventure along the west coast of Spitsbergen.

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Day 10: Prins Karls Forland – Murraypynten – Trygghamna – Longyearbyen

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Prins Karls Forland in the sun is really a f* beautiful sight as the Captain would say. The bay was bounded by high peaks and thick glaciers. Once again our friends the walruses were lying on the beach at MurrayPynten. After a nice photo session we kept on sailing south towards Isfjorden and the bay of Trygghamna. We had a nice walk in this very bucolic place and around the sharp peak of Protektorfjellet. From there we could observe the Russian town of Barentsburg. We also found a goose nest with eggs inside.

 

Sadly all good things come to an end, and we reached Longyearbyen in the evening.

 

But thankfully we still had one night left onboard Polaris I! Before dinner, the crew of the Polaris came to greet us goodbye, and the Captain was even wearing his uniform! Paula showed us the slideshow of the trip, made of photos gracefully shared by the passengers, very emotional and some pretty funny. Tabernacle, that was brilliant! Thank you Paula!